Trip to San Blas and Cartagena

We finally got on board the Ulysses on Tuesday night. The Captain and the only crew member are Polish, both called Miroslav, Miro for short. The other passengers were Patricia, from Canada, and Jane and Victor from Manchester, England. We slept in the boat and departed early on Wednesday morning. The captain already told us that we would sail against the waves so we were on guard about possible sea sickness. However, soon all the female population of the boat fell sick in varying degrees and went to lay downstairs. For them the 10-hour trip was quite miserable, and we felt so sorry for them. We tried to mitigate our sorrows drinking some beer and chatting all the way while waiting to catch some fish. Our patience was rewarded because we caught a couple of makerels. As soon as they were caught they were quickly beheaded, gutted, skinned, cleaned, and chopped into bitesize pieces, which sprinkled with lemon  made an excellent instant sushi. Now our remorse was compounded because we thought of the women and also of the dead fish, but beer helped us to clean our conscience.

There are 365 islands in the San Blas group, but only a few are inhabited. Many are just a coral reef, and few have a proper name. The inhabitants are Kuna indians, which came to the islands afte the arrival of the spanish conquistadores. We will visit a few of them during a couple of days and then continue to Cartagena.

We arrived to the Chichime Island, one of the San Blas group, at around 6:00pm. Soon after lowering the anchor a canoe with Kuna indians came to offer their handcrafts but we postponned any shopping until fully recovered from the trip. There are a few boats moored around the island and the water is absolutely perfect, so we went for a swim before dinner, and this ended up the day. 

 

From Chichime we went to an unnamed little island. There are three Kuna indian families living there and they were very friendly. At night they prepared a bonfire and cooked coconut rice with grilled fish. Delicious...!

Finally, we visited a third island before preparing for the longer trip to Cartagena.

 

Now the trip from San Blas to Cartagena was a complete adventure in itself. We sailed on an Eastward direction over high seas, initially with an unusual calm weather, but on the final stretch the boat was jumping over high waves with good side wind from the North. The full blown sails proved too much for the strong wind and they had to trim them by half because the boat was tilting to starboard more than desired. 

Sailing at night at full speed over the waves, watching the fluorescence of the plancton behind the boat, and being bathed with salt water over and over again exceeded my poor expectations. 

A sail boat is not a place to look for comfort. Under the deck it is generally too hot, the water is limited therefore we couldn't take a bath in five days, and the constant rocking and tilting of the boat makes sleeping almost impossible. However, looking back to our little adventures, I am glad that we decided to sail instead of flying to Cartagena.

 

 

Leaving Portobello

 

 

 

 

 

Chichime island

 

 

One of the Kuna families, with Alicia and Miro, great guy!

 

Three of their kids. We were surprised to see how well educated and friendly they were, considering that they live in such a remote place and with so little sources. 

 

A close view of the island

 

 

Sailor Miro and the five passengers gathering around the bonfire.

 

 

 

Now we are leaving San Blas and heading towards Cartagena. We will miss this place!

 

 

Happily possing for the camera in the Cartagena Dock. Jane and Victor, Patricia, Alicia, Captain Miro, Miro the sailor, and your humble servant.